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SCOTLAND'S NORTH COAST
Between the Thurso and Cape Wrath lie six salmon rivers of considerable variety. In order, they are the Forss, the Halladale, the Naver, the Borgie, the Hope and the Dionard. Tradition has it that true springers in Scotland run the east and north coast waters, but that the north-flowing rivers of Caithness and Sutherland mark the limit of these early runs. But it is not an even picture.
The Thurso is a notable spring water, but its near neighbour to the west, the Forss, while it may have the odd early fish in March, is not really an early spring river. The Halladale has a long tradition as an early river, but since deep afforestation came to its valley, its flows have been altered. It is however a superb late spring and summer water, given a bit of rain. Naver runs spring fish from early March and once had substantial early numbers, but it is its prodigious summer runs which bring it fame today. It is generally said that the Borgie marks the western boundary of spring runs, but the spring numbers are small. The older records of the Hope interestingly show March fish there in the past, a little unexpectedly.
What these patchy returns of springers on the north coast show is that generally speaking our spring salmon have suffered a decline in the past two or three decades and that it is the smaller spring waters at the edge of the chart which show the recession in the most marked way.
These northern waters, however, have had a remarkable boost to early summer catches recently. Good water conditions, together with the effects of taking off the nets and long-line fisheries of Iceland and the Faroes in the early nineties, produced for these delightful, smaller fisheries in the north a remarkable return to good numbers. There seems to be no doubt that these northern rivers, given water conditions, are set to recover substantially and to attract fishers to this remote and beautiful region.
The finest of these waters, and alas, the least accessible to visitors is the Naver. The main river is, like the Helmsdale, fished exclusively through let weeks. Local hotels in Bettyhill and Altnaharra may have access to some of these, with early weeks more likely than late ones, so it is worth trying. Records show that this was a notable spring water in former years and it still yields respectable March and some progressively good April sport, but the earliest runs have declined of late. The Naver is famous for its prodigious summer fishing. There is access to the tidal reaches of the river at Bettyhill for sea-trout best from mid-June on, but it is in the upper reaches of the Naver system that general access is easiest.
Loch Naver lies at the head of the main river and it is at the downstream end of this loch that the Naver's important tributary the Mallart joins on the right bank. This lovely little stream, sustained by large and small lochs at its head, if often available for short lets on its lower reaches through local hotels and estates. Good runs of salmon ascend here, stopping for a while at falls on the lower river. Given water from summer on, the Mallart can give good sport. It is normally reached by boat across Loch Naver and is often fished from Altnaharra Hotel.
Loch Naver itself holds good numbers of salmon and sea-trout. It is fished from early spring on, by trolling in the early weeks and by fly as the salmon settle in their lies, but it has the reputation of being best in the spring months, although well stocked thereafter. At the head of the loch itself the moorland Mudale river flows in. Spring fish run this water but in summer it also provides good fly sport especially after rain. In this whole area there are also many good trout lochs and from Altnaharra there is also access to Loch Hope, described later.
The Forss runs its short course on the borders of Caithness and Sutherland just west of Thurso. It runs some springers and has the reputation of producing some large fish. This is followed by good grilse and salmon summer runs, dependent upon water and there is a distinct run of late summer and autumn salmon here. The river has a compensation flow from an impoundment in a loch at its head, but the Forss is really a spate river. It is not noted for its sea-trout.
The Halladale is a most interesting river, largely time-shared, but with lets available. Again, it runs springers, but water conditions dictate the returns. The river has no large lochs to help its flow however, and is thus dependent upon spates. When these come, as they did in early summer 1993, this river is a most productive, sporting and delightful place to take salmon. The river flows to the north coast, but its headwaters reach back towards the Helmsdale and some fishers operate from Forsinard.
The Borgie is an interesting small river, flowing through various lochs including Loch Loyal, which has a lovely setting. The lower course of the river in Strath Borgie provides a great assortment of small pools and lies. There are falls some five miles from the estuary and there are good salmon beats above and below this obstacle. A water management scheme involving lochs on the river course helps to provide good flow, particularly in May, the best of the spring months. There are good grilse and summer salmon in July and August.
When we come to the Hope and its western neighbour the Dionard, we enter different fishing territory. These are essential summer waters, although the Hope has a lingering reputation for some early salmon. Dionard and Hope, while neighbours, are in striking contrast in several ways. Hope is a very short river draining a large, good sea-trout loch. Dionard is a longer river, draining a smaller, often prolific loch high in the hills. Loch Hope is one of the most interesting sea-trout dapping waters of Sutherland. It is divided into beats, some of which are fished from Altnaharra and some from Tongue. The Hope system fishes best from late June to September, typical of a west coast sea trout fishery. Dionard is a fine, small, fairly long spate river with moorland stretches especially on its lower beats. At its mouth, the river enters the Kyle of Durness where there is some interesting sea-trout, fishing in the brackish and salt water. Cape Wrath Hotel is a good local centre for this fine area.
Also worthy of mention, between Hope and the Dionard, is the smaller river, the Polla, which flows through rugged country into Loch Eriboll, and which has recently 'benefitted' from a great influx of salmon fish-farm escapees.
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